Mar del Plata

Just back from my first trip out of BA. It was amazing...As the daily combo of 95 degree heat and miles upon miles of pavement in our neighborhood becomes quite unbearable after a few hours outside, we, like most of the city does each summer, decided to venture 250 miles south to Mar del Plata, for 4 nights. A beautiful city of beaches and breezes. Let the adventures begin :D

As we approached the bus station to buy our tickets to the beach, the place was bustling with locals who were all in the same boat as us....wanting to escape the heat, and do it quickly. Waiting in line, the woman behind the counter informed Lesley and I that every bus was full for the next few days, except for the VIP suit on one of them (once again, were knew were were getting a run for our money, but too exhausted to argue)...Although it only cost a few more dollars, we were hesitant as we already stood out as tourists and now were going to come across as "rich, snobby, I only ride VIP" Americans. " *sigh* However, we wanted to get to the beach, got a good laugh and as we boarded a few days later, and were directed to our special section...the top level of the bus, front row, reclining leather seats and served a little tray of crackers. Quite nice, really :D And...seeing as the bus doesn't stop a single time over the 5 hour trip, we were able to catch a little nap.

We arrived at our hostel, signed in and were taken to our dorm...Upon entering the building, it was obvious to anyone, cleanliness was not a top priority. Gross. Then we drop our bags off, I pull back the "clean" sheets and find an unecessarily large amount of somebody else's hair in my bed. While im trying to process how in the world I can sleep there, Lesley points to our bed-side table and was like, "Molls, is that a condom?" Yes...it was sick. Needless to say, I slept in my leggings and long-sleeved t-shirt, along with socks :D Oh the thrills of sleeping in hostels! hahaha! Besides that, we met some really cool people from all over the world. A guy from Sweeden who had been camping in tents for the past 8 months, a guy from the UK who had been in Bogota, Colombia and many other Portenos who were there to kick it at the beach for vacaciones. Always cool to hear what others think about our country and seeing as Obama and the inaguration was the next day, I was drilled with questions about our government, the economy, hatred towards Bush and the war etc...

The next day we met up with Laura and Alberto and missioned to the beach. It felt sooooooooo nice to have a breeze from the ocean and although the sun was still blazing by 10am and it was in the 90's, we were thrilled to be there. The beach was PACKED. Im talking, PACKED. Hard to find a spot big enough to lay a towel. Music was being played, vendors were weaving through the masses trying to sell gold chains, umbrellas, sandals, etc, children were darting amongst us and missing our heads by mere inches and we simply laid in the sun, soaking up the surroundings and rotating the rounds of covering my skin in sunblock, which by the way, has become my newest perfume/scent :D hahahha!

We experienced our first "Asado" and "Fernet" at the hostel that night. It was pretty awesome. Alberto grilled up huge chunks of fresh steak (yes, im still a vegetarian, nice try), veggies and sliced potatoes drizzled with spices and olive oil. We ate till we could eat no more, drank Fernet and coke till we justified being "hungry" again, played cards till our eyes grew sore and then said our thank-you and goodbyes as lesley and I headed back to our hostel. As we left, the guy who runs the gate said he would drive us back so we didn't have to walk late at night and alone, but we said we were fine. The side streets we took were empty and dark, yet about a block away we passed a person on the corner on the street. Tall, large calves, blonde curly hair, and a skirt that was more for decoration as all was "hanging out"....odd, but we still didn't catch on...Then a block further we saw another, then the next block another. Eh hem...after a blurry observation we realized they were all tranvestite prostitutes!!! OMG...I was trying hard not to laugh as it probably wouldn't impress them, and we picked up the pace and "casually jogged" all the way home. Never a dull moment here!

Anyhoo, Lesley's brother is coming in to town this weekend and we are all headed to Uruguay for 5 or so days. He has a friend in Punta del Este where we can stay for free, which is super sweet as I have heard that it's quite expensive there. So the plan is to take a high-speed one hour boat ride to Montevideo and then a bus from there. Im excited for another adventure. All else is well here. Ryan, one of my brothers best friends, arrived in BA lastnight and is kickin' it in the city at our place for the next couple days before he moves up North to Salta. Im giving him the "tour" via el subte today :D BE SAFE and MUCH LOVE!

This and that and blah, blah, blah

With so much happening on a daily basis, I found it's easiest to write it all down ASAP as my memory fails me often and this is a sure way to look back and re-live many memories. Here it goes...
1) Mosquitoes...they love us. Lesley woke up yesterday with 18 bites on a single leg. Looks like she has the measles! My fair skin has been the target of many attacks, too. From behind my ear to the palm of my hand and down to my poor little ankles they can't get enough of us. Thank God malaria isn't in the city!

2) We had a 4th roomie move in yesterday. Evan, from NYC. He is 24 and been traveling all over S. America for the past 8 months. Seems super cool and is a photographer. However, he will only be here two weeks, then is off to Brasil. Supposedly a Sweedish guy will replace him for the 3 months after, yet rumor has it that he is a "tweeker" and slighlty odd. Lesley and I are not too thrilled and hope for the best...

3) Planning on spending a week at the beach to escape the intense heat of the city. Headed there with Laura, Alberto and his friends. The thought of submerging myself in agua fria sounds incredible right now :)

4) Attending a soccer game in Mar del Plata: San Lorenzo vs. Boca. We heard these games get quite rowdy, but think it will be awesome to experience. Going to the baseball games while living in the Dominican Republic was one of my favorite memories, so im excited!

5) While sitting at the plaza and conversing over a Quilmes, yesterday, a guy walks past Lesley and I turned his head and said, "hi!" Um...random. We said "hi" in return and the next thing we knew he was sitting at our table with us, ordering a beer and conjugating verbs from his notebook. He was anxious to learn English and we could always practice our Spanish. The dude smoked 6 cigs in a period of 45 minutes and chatted up a storm. We were quite entertained by this short, pudgy, hippy of a local :) Explained he worked in a restaurant in Palermo Hollywood and just wanted some American friends. We exchanged emails and are planning on kickin' it with him soon. Same went for a guy who worked at a store where I found my shoes. Super nice, helpful in giving us advice about anything and just really chill. Good vibes here.

6) The style here is very bohemian. Although appearance is huge, the clothing is super-laid back. All the heels I brought..yah, I won't be sporting :D Everyone wears flip-flops, even at night to the clubs. Comfort is key. Also, Lesley and I are shocked by the size of the girls here. They are TINY!!! 90lbs seems to be the average/acceptable weight. We asked some of the locals and apparently eating disorders are a huge problem in BA....hence the skin and bone structures everywhere. Lastly...tattoos and piercings are the thing to sport. Almost every "skeleton" we pass has ink on some part of them. Guys and girls alike. I was surprised.

Frank and Fred

Making new friends in a foreign country is often an exciting and rewarding experience...however, when the new amigos intrude on your territory, jump out at you in the dark, intimidate and at times HORRIFY you, the whole experience can turn bitter in a matter of minutes...Enter: Frank and Fred.
So as one is probably thinking at this time, who are these so-called friends??!!! Well, they are in fact 2 COCKROACHES. Yikes, gross, eeeeew, help, eeeeeek etc....all things that run through my mind as Im happily cooking my little meals in the kitchen and Frank decides to pop in for an unannounced visit while almost giving me a heart-attack, or Fred does his morning run across the counter as im frying an egg.
This entry is more of a venting session than an informative blog. It all stemmed from my morning routine and as I was just greeted by Frank, a matter of minutes ago. My heart is still racing...thank you, friend. As always he and his long-ass antennas raced over the dishes as I reached for a mug. Trying hard not to SCREAM and wake the roomies, I pondered what I should do to better aquaint myself with the two. Well I came to the conclusion that love em' or hate em,' Frank and Fred are here to stay and I must accept them as part of nuestra casa :( OMG...

Recoleta

Recoleta

Recoleta is the largest "barrio" aka neighborhood de Buenos Aires. The streets flaunt the classical wealth and elegance along with the latest fashions and European-style mansions with Neoclassical facades and fancy ironwork. Impressive, to say the least. We strolled all around the area and with each corner we turned, approached another fascinating sight.
We vistited el Cementerio de la Recoleta which is home to La Recoleta's most famous resident, Evita, or Eva Peron, who is the second wife of President Juan Peron and one of Argentina's most enduring figures. After leaving the cementario which Lesley constantly referred to as the "cemeNtary" en English (perhaps she is forgetting ENGLISH), we made our way over to el Centro Cultural Recoleta y Buenos Aires Design. I walked up to the guard acting like I was a "Porteno" and he clearly noticed the attempt ( perhaps the red-hair, sunburn and accent??!!!), called me out and SLOWLY explained how the joint was "gratis" and he would love to take a picture of us...Thank-you, Sir.

It was an amazing venture as we cruised room after room of modern art and such. However, as often is the case in the world of abstract and modern art, we tried hard to appreciate the exhibits, yet at the same time wondered how their art was any better than my 1st grade students finger paintings...all while rushing through las salas and knowing that we were hosting our first dinner party at nuestra casa and better make a good impression...as always, go team :)

Anyhoo, on the way home we ran by un mercado and purchased bottles of vino tinto for OVER a dollar in the USA. Good call. After the experience with the VERY CHEAP (85 cents/bottle equivalent) yesterday, we have decided to "splurge" from our $5/day limit and be true hosts. I love to entertain and we were not to fail our first time around :)
Anyhoo, life is getting better by the day. Locations are becoming more familiar and the HUGE city is growing on us. Our intense sunburns from yesterday are fading and the vino is becoming more common in name...what and what-not to purchase...
As we pass fashion boutique after boutique, we remind ourselves of what we already have and that we are here for the experience of living in another cultura, not the fashion aspect...which is hard at times :) I have found, tried on and am "planning" on buying a new pair of kicks... Grey leather high-tops with 3 rows of velcro....may sound hideous, but are pretty amazing. Just wait :) Shoes and jeans are my weakness in life...hahahhaha! At the same time, we are thinking of collaborating on a book titled, "how to live in BA on less than $5/day." Wish us luck as we continue to explore, embrace la cultura, experience the unknown and live life outside of the USA...as always, much love

Las fotos de Puerto Madero

Puerto Madero

Caught the subte to Puerto Madero today. It's another neighborhood de Buenos Aires and about a 30 min ride. Mainly a business district and also home to La Casa Rosada, which is where the president works each day. Lots of history involved and very interesting to see. Also in the area are The Docks, which location used to be a port and is now surrounded by wealthy Portenos and foreigners. Beautiful place to check out with an awesome/amazing bridge to strut across :)

San Telmo Sunday Market

San Telmo

Buen dia...So this morning (being 1pm for us), Lesley and I embarked on a mission to San Telmo. It is a neighborhood about 20 minutes away via el subte (public metro line) and the area is famous for its Sunday market.

I guess that describing the adventure on the subte is a story in itself. Ill try and make it short. Being our first time taking the underground metro, we had some doubt as we heard it wasn't the safest route to take, but seeing as we will be here 3 months, decided to go for it and become familiar riding it, sooner rather than later. Upon buying passes that are good for 10 rides, we swiped them through the machine, entered through the gate and then realized we were heading the wrong direction. Go team :D So...we left, crossed the street, re-entered and after explaining to the woman behind the counter that we had already paid but gone the wrong way, she understood and told us to pass...but the gate required our card to be swiped again.... So this random old man sees us looking somewhat confused and approaches. Explaining in a difficult/raspy/slang Spanish, he says we need to re-swipe our cards. We told him we had, yet he insisted we do it again...3 more times, actually. Hahahhaha! Basically he ran my card down from 10 trips to 7 trips in a matter of seconds until I realized what was happening and kindly told him I was capable of doing it myself. Lesley...well her card dropped a few trips also. Living and learning, it's what we do :D Then old man proceeded to follow us on the metro and appoint himself to be our tour-guide for the duration of the trip. Unfortunatley for him, we decided it was best to hop off a few stops before him and continue on our way. Sorry sketchy tour-guide, we're independent ladies :D Ok, so onto describing the Sunday Market...

So, this "Sunday market" is more like a 10 block festival that attracts people from all over the world. Vendors line the streets selling everything from shoes,dresses,hats and coats, to fresh-squeezed orange juice and mate (the countries famous tea) to their own personal possessions that they hope to sell. These items varied from used baby bottles and kitchen utensils, to small antique-looking knick-knacks to lamp shades. Basically, this market had anything and everything. I was impressed. Even better was that as we wandered around in a overwhelming state of awe, local musicians/street performers/people dancing the tango, etc., were surrounding us. Most impressive was a group of indigenous people that were dressed in traditional clothing and playing such beautiful music, that I got goosebumps. Yes, it was that good :) Our mission of exploring and sight seeing San Telmo took a good 7 hours and our feet were done for towards the end. We popped into mercado for some fresh veggies. The prices are ridiculously cheap and we have been living on caprese y otras cosas deliciosas :D If you made it through this long post...point for you. Ill try and keep em' short, but this is as much for me as you all...my "dear diary" if you will. ahhahaha! until next time, chao

Av. Cordoba and blue sky galore

Just another day...of awkward moments and late night festivities

Wow. That is all I can say. We got home at 5:45am after a night out on the town. One of Lesleys good friends from college, Laura, moved down here lastyear and began dating an Argentinian and we met up with them, along with his friends at a bar LATE lastnight. And by late Im talking, we left our apt at 3am to hit up the town. You know you're in another country when people call and are like, "Hey, lets go out tonight! Ill swing by your place around 2am and we can go from there." Eh hem, definitely a time schedule I must adjust to :) However, Lesley and I ran to a kiosko around 11pm picked up a few litres of Quilmes and returned to the apt where we sat on our terrace, drank, played cards and conversed with our roomie Adam, until our friends arrived and we were sufficiently liquered upand excited for the "evening" to begin :)

Anyhoo, the bar was awesome and it was fun to speak with all the locals there. They are eager to ask questions and appreciate the fact that we speak Spanish. My "supurb" accent definitely raises some eyebrows and at times I think that people are completely baffled by my way with words :D I met one girl, Vicky, who I talked with lots and she seems to be a good connection in regards to my teaching, which I plan to start in the next couple of weeks.

Until I begin teaching, Lesley and I are having a blast exploring the city and trying to learn all the street names and where certain places are...mainly, the cheapest restaurants with the best food and drink. It was funny, and awkward at the same time yesterday as we were walking down the street and I was approaced by this random guy talking on his cell. He asked me what the tattoo on my back said, then continued to ask me questions....all while holding up his cell for the person on the other line to hear! haha! I was quite confused, slightly awkward and not knowing what to do! He then began blabbing again in his cell, and before I knew it, held the cell up to me, asked me to say "hi" to his friend on the other line and tell him I was from the US. Lesley and I were laughing as it was the most random thing in the world. Shortly after we continued on our way and the man walked away...still chatting away on his phone and with two new American "friends." :D

Well it's about noon now. Just woke up and about to run down the block in search of a much needed coffee. Unlike the Starbucks that dominate every street corner in the states, oddly enough, it is difficult at times to find a simple cup of caffeine here! For me, that is tough :) Coffee keeps me functioning. To solve this "problema" I ended up strolling the streets for over an hour yesterday morning until I came upon a sign on a storefront reading, "vino, cafecito, mate etc." Thrilled to see it, I wandered on in alone to a very formal looking restaurant, walked up to the server and asked for "un cafe para llevar." She looked at me strangely and then pointed to the menu asking if I wanted anything else. Growing more awkward by the minute, she informed me I was in a formal wine bar, however they would supply me with my fix. So after overhearing them all chatting in the kitchen, they walked out and handed me a mini cup with a shot of espresso. It was perfect. I had my caffeine, had my moment of feeling like a complete and utter fool and was on my way again. Wish me luck as I embark on yet another "mision para un cafe." hahaha!

peace and love

1st day in Buenos Aires

Well I made it. Just touched-down in Buenos Aires and am beginning to settle into my new little home. The weather is incredible and I have yet to see a cloud in the sky :) Quite different from Seattle. Lesley and I met up in Houston, TX and after 5 hours in the airport, we took the 11 hour flight down here. Upon disembarking from the plane, we immediately began remembering what it's like living in another country...
As the taxi dropped us off in front of our apt, we looked around thinking he must be lost or he was stopping to pick someone else up...but no, he was in fact dropping us off at our destination. An iron-screened door squeezed in between two discount clothing stores! hahahaha! Not quite as we had expected,but were anxious to check it out. Our landlord was 45 minutes late to meeting us at our new apt in Villa Crespo, which is a few blocks from Palermo Viejo. After the wait on the sidewalk with all of our luggage and locals giving us very awkward stares, Clara, our landlord showed up with the keys. She led us down 2 open-roofed halls that had 3 different locked doors and then, we entered, "home-sweet-home." I quickly peeked into my bedroom to see what it looked like....well, upon turning the door-knob, it rattled and fell off onto the floor, no biggie, and then peered inside....there before me was my new place of glory. A 10' by 10' square room with tall walls and not a single window to be seen! yikes! Not quite what I was anticipating, but whatever, it was what it was and I was happy to be traveling :)
After settling in and meeting our "too cool for school" mid-30's roomie, Adam, Lesley and I missioned out to see what our neighborhood had to offer. We found an awesome Plaza only 4 blocks away that was full of two-story restaurants and bars. Music was being blasted from random speakers and people were all of all backgrounds chatting, eating, drinking and going about their merry little lives. Lesley and I ordered some food and beers, then just watched in amazement as the man sitting at the table next to us was attacked by a swarm of pigeons! haha!Omg, they are soooo annoying here and about 15 landed on his table as he was eating and having a cigg. They got his sandwich, fries and knocked his drink over, all as he was trying to scare them. I was awkwardly laughing as I found the situation to be so absurd and random :)
The local beer is quite nice. As the Argentinian peso exchange rate is 3 to a $1, and a liter of the local argentinian beer, Quilmes, is just about that, a long draw-out lunch in the plaza was awesome.
The nightlife is insane here and people, families with kids included, usually go out to eat dinner around 11pm. The clubbing and bars aren't usually in full-swing till 3am or so. The streets are relatively calm in the afternoon hours as most are napping and preparing for the evenings. I must become accustomed to this quickly as my normal sleeping pattern wakes me up at 6-7am and Im exhausted by 9pm :)
Alright, nothing more I can think of at this time. The Spanish here is spoken much slower than in the Dominican Republic, however, the vocabulary is very different. It will probably take a week or so to get back in the habit of speaking Spanish, but i'm anxious and ready!